By Geoffrey Norman
Tearooms aren’t difficult to find in Portland, but finding one that serves tea gongfu-style is rare. In August of 2011, Raymond and Pearl Zhang set out to change that with a more traditional teahouse and café aptly called The Red Robe. It takes its name from the famous roasted Wuyi oolong.
Located in Portland’s Old Town/Chinatown area, the couple’s reason for opening the shop was to pass on aspects of Chinese culture through tea. Good and healthy food to compliment the tea menu was also important. Da Hong Pao (“Big Red Robe”) was a special tea for them, and appreciated for its fragrance and flavor. Their emphasis on serving tea gongfu-style stemmed from their mutual heritage.
Upon entering the teahouse proper, one is greeted by either of the owners at the main counter. The front register area is lined with a waterfall display, a bamboo tray, and various teapets – many of which are available for sale. Pu-erh cakes and tea canisters adorn a wall to the right of the main counter; various teapots – some Yixing – are displayed to the rear of the register. Among the teaware, there is a teapot Raymond has had in his family for three generations. (No, it’s not for sale.)
In the seating area proper, guests are greeted by a wall of writing, detailing the more reasonable origin story of Da Hong Pao tea. (There are at least five.) On the back wall, scrawled in huge calligraphic letters, is an excerpt from a poem by Lu Tong of the Tang Dynasty. It is dubbed “The Tea Drinking Song”.
Aside from their normal daily hours, The Red Robe also hosts a “Chef’s Special Menu” of traditional Cantonese dining for private events. House tea, steamed rice and assorted fruit come complimentary. For meals over $50, complimentary soup is also provided. If the party calls for movies or presentations, the “Tea Drinking Song” wall recedes to reveal a large movie screen. There is also a movie projector affixed to the ceiling for use.
In the three years since they opened, Raymond and Pearl have discovered that “being nice” is one of the most important aspects to maintaining clientele. Spreading the joy of tea starts with treating potential guests as family the moment they enter. Having a reasonably priced menu and a good selection of tea are also bonuses. A solid two-item combo meal and a gongfu cha experience costs only $15. They also sell tea to-go for the guest on the go.
For people seeking out a more traditional experience to go with their tea caffeine kick, this is the place. If one ever visits Portland, and needs a respite from the rain, find cover under the Red Robe. The tea of the same name is worth it, too.
The Red Robe Teahouse & Café
310 NW Davis St., Suite A, Portland, Oregon, 97209
For more tea writing by Geoffrey Norman, please visit The Lazy Literatus.