After having spent many years living and travelling in Taiwan, I have come to the conclusion that Taiwan’s tea culture is, easily, one of the best in the world. The island, referred to as ilha formosa by the Portuguese (meaning "beautiful island," and with good reason), has earned global renown for its oolong teas: Here, amongst breathtaking mountains and small tea shops where masters perform the centuries-old art of Gongfu Cha, you’ll find a deep love and appreciation for these exceptional oolongs.
In a rapidly changing world where modernization and globalized tea production seem to be becoming the norm, these traditions endure. Thankfully, the passionate artisans of Taiwan persist in preserving the classic methods that are a testament to the country’s tea culture.
The Art of Hand-Rolled Oolong
The hand-rolling process is so important in Taiwanese oolongs. This is due to how it gradually breaks down the cell walls of the leaves, releases essential oils, and deepens the tea’s flavor and aroma.
Some of the most highly treasured oolongs include those from Taiwan’s high mountains, namely, Alishan and Lishan.
These high-mountain teas are known and valued all across the world for their distinctive flavor profiles: typically floral, buttery, and honeyed, created from a mix of altitude, mist, and mineral-rich soil. The smoothness of these teas is another one of the many reasons why they are so incredibly sought-after.
"The rolling process is important as it enhances the tea’s ability to release layers of flavor over multiple infusions," said Xin Qing, a third-generation tea farmer from Nantou. "It is a process that takes a lot of precision and time, which machines cannot replace.’"
Not only does producing such high-quality tea in Taiwan require years of dedication, but it is also necessary to have a deep understanding of nature’s subtleties in order to do it justice. The smallest factors, from the influence of altitude and climate to the precise moment that a leaf reaches the correct oxidation level, can determine the final character of a tea.
Can a machine preserve this level of quality and craftsmanship? Arguably not.
Gongfu Tea Culture
There are hundreds of tea rooms in every major city in Taiwan, with many offering the opportunity to get involved with Gongfu Cha, the immersive and highly skilled tea ceremony that emphasizes patience and care.
In an era where, frankly, convenience is valued more than tradition, the ritual of Gongfu Cha ensures that artisanal and historic brewing methods survive. Where fast-paced lifestyles are becoming more normal, this slow and purposeful approach offers a striking contrast.
Typically, tea masters in Gongfu Cha brew in small, unglazed Yixing clay teapots or delicate porcelain gaiwans, sticking to specific water temperatures and short, repeated infusions. This allows the tightly rolled leaves of oolong tea to unfurl, and it results in the aroma and flavor being able to fully develop over multiple steepings.
It is in this way that Gonfu Cha almost becomes a form of meditation, as drinkers focus on each sensory element of the practice: from the aroma of the leaves to the warmth of the teapot, the rhythmic sound of pouring water to the changing colors of the liquor.
While deeply rooted in hundreds of years of history, Gongfu Cha is also evolving as younger generations embrace the practice by blending both classical techniques with modern aesthetics, and popularity of this tea-brewing method resurges.
Tradition vs. Modernization
Currently, Taiwan’s tea industry is learning to balance tradition and the demands of an evolving global market. On one hand, the rise of mass production and automation has meant that more tea is being produced than ever, able to reach international markets quickly and thus become more accessible for everyone. However, these advancements result in a loss of flavor, complexity, and the craftsmanship that defines Taiwanese tea.
As such, being open to innovation and development is key to the survival of Taiwanese tea. Many farmers are now experimenting with oxidation techniques, hybrid processing methods, and new flavour profiles in an attempt to keep up with modern demands.
An example of this innovation is at the Taiwan Tea Research and Extension Station (TRES), where visitors are able to learn about their efforts to preserve Taiwan’s tea heritage whilst also driving advancements in cultivation and processing.
Through extensive research on pest resistance, terroir optimization, and artisanal techniques, I was told by Wenxin, a local tea educator, TRES aims to keep Taiwanese tea competitive on the global stage. Notable cultivars like Ruby Red #18 (developed by TRES) exemplify this balance.
It seems as though in an industry that is constantly developing (e.g., with the rise of flavored blends, boba, and ready-to-drink tea), Taiwan’s traditional tea industry is also able to find ways to evolve.
Notably, younger generations of tea producers are embracing modern marketing strategies, using social media and online platforms to share their knowledge, connect with global tea communities, and grow a worldwide appreciation for handcrafted teas.
Despite the obvious challenges, this all suggests that tradition and progress can coexist in peace—if Taiwan can continue to adapt and evolve within the industry. Many in the industry believe the answer lies in education—helping consumers understand why craftsmanship matters and why traditionally made tea commands a higher price.
The Guardians of Tradition
Preserving these traditions requires the dedication of those who see tea as more than a commodity.
"We could produce tea faster and cheaper with machines," says Lu Qi, who owns a family-run farm in Nantou. "But if we abandon these traditional methods, we lose something, which we cannot get back."
Despite the pressures to modernize, Lu Qi remains committed to the old ways. He describes the long nights spent carefully monitoring oxidation levels and rolling techniques—decisions that no machine can replicate with the same intuitive precision.
‘Machines can mimic movement, but they don’t know when the tea is ready the way we do.," he said.
His son, Wei, will one day lead the business—but Lu Qi is confident that he will uphold these traditional methods, passed down from his own father.
The Future of Taiwanese Tea
While modernization to some degree is inevitable, Taiwan’s tea industry stands at a crossroads: Embrace efficiency at the risk of losing its artisanal roots, or find a way to honor the past while evolving for the future.
As global appreciation for fine tea grows, Taiwan’s rich heritage offers something irreplaceable: A connection to history, to land, and to the hands that carefully shape every leaf.
In the end, whether by hand or machine, the essence of Taiwanese tea will always lie in the passion and dedication of those who continue to cultivate, process, and share this extraordinary beverage with the world.
All photos courtesy of Amy Aed.
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